Category Archives: Wine

Wine vines on an island hillside

For Island Wines, It’s In the Rocks

Sometimes grapes are grown in unexpected places, and island wines are worth seeking out. After all, the purpose of a grape is to entice animals and birds to eat them and spread the seeds, which are largely undigested, to other areas keeping the vines alive. Since birds enjoy grapes, the vines can easily spread to unique areas around the world. Birds and other animals do not spread the seeds of grapes around in unison to create vineyards, rather that is done by people, and people have spread the vine for centuries. Some of the places that vines exist seem unusual to us now but were once important trade routes. Because of the trade routes of the past, many islands that are hospitable to grapes make wine.

Islands can be difficult to get to, and they can feel removed from the hustle and bustle of daily life. The typical allure of visiting islands is going for relaxation and vacation, a place to get away from it all. There is often a focus on the island’s natural resources in everyday life, as anything that does not come from the island has to be imported which drives up costs, can have time delays, and items may not be regularly available. Plus, any island on a trade route was a place for refueling and restocking the ship. It is no wonder that many islands make their own alcohol, and the islands of Portugal are no exception.

Portugal has two archipelagos, or groups of islands, Madeira and Azores (Açores). Each archipelago was important on trade routes when goods were moved throughout the world on ships. Since the invention of air travel and heightened speed of ships, both island groups have become less of a port of call, yet both groups of islands make still and fortified wines. Understandably when these islands were stops on trade routes, fortified wines were of considerable importance. The fortification process of adding higher proof alcohol to wine stabilizes it and protects the wine from spoilage. While the fortified wines are often the most well-known, the still, dry non fortified wines are also worth some attention.

Azores or Açores, the latter being the Portuguese spelling, is a collection of nine islands in the Northern Atlantic Ocean between Portugal and North America. They are volcanic in origin and the natural beauty can make it feel as if transported to a different era. Some areas look prehistoric, like something from the time of dinosaurs. Of the nine volcanic islands three of the islands make wine. Each island has its own DOP (Denominação de Origem Protegida) also known as a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). There is also an overarching Azores Vinhos Regional (VR). There is a focus on white wine in the region, but some red wines are made as well. One look at some of the vineyards in this region can make a person question how vines even came to be in this place, as planting vines here was no easy task.

Vines on a cliff wall

The answer to the question of how vines came to Acores is unclear. Some believe it was missionaries and/or monks that brought vines from Madeira, some believe the settlers brought vines with them, and yet others believe that Henry the Navigator brought vines from Crete. The three islands which produce wine are Pico, Terceira, and Graciosa. Regardless of how the vines reached the islands, the hard work put into creating vineyards was done by the island inhabitants. The volcanic rock had to be unearthed to allow vineyards to be planted, and what was removed from the ground was stacked into basaltic rock walls known as currais on the island of Pico. The currais protect the vines from wind, sea spray, and retain heat from the sun that is released in the evening, helping the grapes to ripen. On Pico, the vines are planted in the cracks in the rocks that sometimes had to be scraped and widened to allow plantings, while soil was brought in from a neighboring island to help stabilize the vines within the rocks. This area is a UNESCO world heritage site. Most of the wine made under the Pico DOP is Arinto do Açores which is a synonym of Sercial from Madeira or Esgana Cão. This grape is sometimes called the dog strangler because of its high amount of acidity. The island of Terceira produces wine under the Biscoitos DOP which got its name from the volcanic rocks that look like biscuits. The wines of Biscoitos are typically made from Verdelho. The third island and DOP is Graciosa, and only small quantities of wine come from this location. Each DOP covers white, sparkling, and fortified wines; for red wines look for the Azores Vinho Regional or IGP labeling. There are limited quantities of these wines, they are not always the easiest to find, and do not expect them to be inexpensive just because they are from a lesser-known region. The white wines are known for their bright acidity with a touch of saline, while the reds are light and bright and from a mix of grapes that generally do not see oak.

Madeira is a collection of four islands, Madeira, Porto Santo, Desertas, and Selvagens, with the two former making wine. The islands are in the Atlantic Ocean closer to Morocco than Portugal. While grapes are grown on both islands, more wine is made and exported from the island of Madeira. Madeira was at one time an incredibly important port along the trade route, and now it is more often a port for small cruise ships. The island was built by a series of volcanic eruptions, the soil is fertile, and the land is steep. Poios, or small terraces, carved from the bedrock of grey or red basalt were created to stop the soil from eroding during heavy rainfall and to keep the vines in place. The vineyards of Madeira are small, owned by growers, and are all over the island. The average vineyard size is .23 hectares and most wineries have very little vineyards of their own. While the Fortified wines that contain the namesake Madeira are their best known wines, the amount of still wine sold as Madeirense DOP is growing. The wines are made in red, white, and rose styles; these wines are mainly made from indigenous Portuguese grapes but even Cabernet Sauvignon has found its way here, though it does struggle to ripen. Typically, a grower can make more money selling grapes for non-fortified wines, but the ripeness level needs to higher. A minimum of 10.5% alcohol is needed for white and rose with a minimum of 11.5% for reds. This is a sharp contrast to the minimum of 9% required at harvest for grapes being used for fortified wines. As the trend for sweet, fortified styles of wine continues to decline, more companies are making both fortified and non-fortified wines. The most promising grapes for still, unfortified wines are made from Verdelho and Sercial. The low pH of the worn and weathered basalt soils creates grapes with high acidity levels, keeping wines refreshing and zippy when not tamed by sugar.

The still, white wines of the Islands of Portugal share volcanic soils, labor intensive work, and occasionally the same grapes, despite being 900km apart. Areas that would be unhospitable for almost any other crop are making exceptional wines. The unfortified wines may not have the historical significance or the long rich history, but these wines do have the refreshing acidity and freshness that comes from vines growing in the rocks.

BevTest 2024 Best of the Year Drinks

The BevTest Best Drinks of 2024

In the aftermath of last week, whether you are popping Champagne corks or crying in your beer, one thing is clear—America could use a good drink.

To that end, the intrepid panelists at Beverage Testing Institute have been hard at work these past eleven months tasting through thousands of wines, spirits, and beers to find the very best tasting, most pleasurable libations in the land.

We invite you to share in our discoveries and bring some hard-earned, potable pleasure to your holidays and beyond.

See our complete list here: https://www.tastings.com/Awards/Best-Of-Year-2024-Spirits.aspx

Decoding Prosecco

There was a time when Prosecco was easy to purchase. At any wine store there were typically five to six different Proseccos. The bottles generally had similar price points with a difference between two to five dollars. Each one had the signature flavors of green apple and blossoms. The only decisions needed were, which is slightly drier and which bottle is more aesthetically pleasing. Now there are many choices and decisions to be made when selecting a Prosecco. Which makes deciphering what the different terms on the label mean is now more important than ever.

How Prosecco is made

Most Prosecco is made using the Martinotti method which is also known as the tank method or the Charmat method. The grapes are picked and pressed either in whole bunches or they are destemmed. The first fermentation is temperature controlled to preserve the aromatics of the grapes, and malolactic conversion is blocked. This preserves the malic acid that gives an aroma and flavor of green apple, and stops the lactic acid, which would otherwise give a softer aroma and creamier mouthfeel, like milk. Prosecco is known for fresh fruit and crisp acidity, so the winemaker doesn’t want to soften the acid. The first fermentation results in a dry base wine. The second fermentation is when the bubbles are made. The base wine is put into a stainless-steel tank along with yeast and sugar. This differs from traditional method sparkling wine that has its second fermentation in the bottle that it will be sold in. The fermentation in the tank creates carbon dioxide which cannot escape the tank and becomes trapped in the wine. The trapped carbon dioxide is what creates the bubbles. As the yeast die, they fall to the bottom and become lees. In Prosecco typically lees contact is not desirable because the longer the wine is in contact with the lees, the more a bread or brioche note will be imparted in the wine, taking away from the freshness. The longer the fermentation lasts the drier the wine will become. The winemaker will stop the fermentation when the wine is at the desired sweetness level. The wine is then filtered and bottled under pressure to keep the bubbles.

Sweetness Levels

The final sweetness level is decided by adding sweetness at the end or more commonly by stopping fermentation when the wine has reached the desired sweetness level. Sweetness levels are consistent throughout the European union and are on the label of the bottle for sparkling wine. Sometimes the sweetness levels are proudly displayed on the front label and sometimes they are in small print on the back label.

Each level has a range and some of the levels overlap. The sweetness levels are grams per liter of residual sugar. The residual sugar in sparkling wine is often about creating balance with the fresh acidity as opposed to adding a sweet taste.

European Union Sweetness Levels:

Brut Nature                         0 g/l

Extra Brut                             0-6 g/l

Brut                                           0-12 g/l

Extra Dry                            12-17 g/l

Dry                                             17-32 g/l

Demi Sec                             32-50 g/l

Doux                                         50+ g/l

The Grapes

Prosecco comes mainly from the Glera grape (Glera Tondo). Glera will constitute a minimum of 85% of the blend. The rest of the blend is comprised by any mix of approved local varieties such as Verdiso or Glera Lungo as well as international varieties such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. For a long time Glera was referred to as its synonym Prosecco. With both the grape and the region using the same name it can be a bit confusing. It also made it impossible to protect the region of Prosecco. Grape names can typically be used for making wine anywhere in the world. Think about how many different countries make Cabernet Sauvignon. Wineries were making Prosecco all around the world. That is why the region reverted to the grapes’ original name of Glera allowing the region for Prosecco to be protected by the European Union – just like Barolo, Bordeaux, or Champagne. Now all Prosecco should come only from Italy and more specifically from three different regions: Prosecco DOC, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG, and Asolo Prosecco DOCG.

 

Prosecco DOC

For the wines of Prosecco DOC, the grapes are sourced, and the wines are made in Veneto or Friuli Venezia-Giulia. Often these are where the larger producers make wine because they can source grapes from a much larger area and make more wine. The typical style of these wines is fresh, bright and fruit forward. The wines can be frizzante (semi-sparkling), spumante (fully sparkling) or rosé. Rosé is a newer category in Prosecco DOC. It is made by adding 10%-15% Pinot Nero (Noir) that has been vinified red. Rosé Prosecco must be vintage dated. White Prosecco that uses Pinot Noir vinifies it with no skin contact making it a white wine. Rosé sparkling wine has been made in the region for a long time, but recently (2020) was allowed to label itself as Prosecco. There is also a very rare and elusive Tranquillo style, which is still Prosecco that is typically only found in Italy. There are other important labels for Prosecco DOC. “Provincia di Treviso”, “Treviso”, or “Trieste” means the grapes were only harvested from that area. “Rifermentazione in bottiglia” means the wine went through its second fermentation in a bottle and has a slightly lower acidity. Wines labeled Prosecco Spumante can be labeled with sweetness levels of Brut Nature through Demi Sec. Rosé Prosecco can be Brut Nature through Extra D

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG

This DOCG was named after the two towns near where the grapes must be sourced from, which was the original area for Prosecco before it was expanded. This is a growing category with smaller levels of production than Prosecco DOC and a higher quality level. There are several categories within this region. Tranquillo, frizzante and frizzante “rifermentazione in bottiglia” exist. Rosé is not allowed to be made in this area. Other styles include Spumante Superiore which can be a stand-alone style or have Sui Lieviti, Rive, or Cartizze on the label. Sui Lieviti means on the lees. These wines are made and bottled in contact with the lees from the wine, and will be cloudier because of the sediment. Rive indicates the use of specific vineyards. The wine can be from a single vineyard or from multiple vineyards. The grape must be hand harvested and the wine vintage dated. Cartizze is a subzone. It is considered the best site for growing Glera in the entire region of Prosecco. It is also one of the most expensive vineyards in Italy. The wines have a fuller body and tend to be made in the Dry category of sweetness level. All other wines from Conegliano Valdobbiadene have a range of sweetness levels.

Asolo Prosecco DOCG

The smallest of the Prosecco regions, it overlaps with a region that produces red wine, but the amount of Prosecco made is growing. Frizzante, frizzante “rifermentazione in bottiglia”, Spumante Superiore and Spumante Supriore Sui Lieviti are different styles. Here if Sui Lieviti is made it must be Brut Nature with all grapes coming from a single harvest. These wines are also fermented in bottle with a minimum of 90 days on the lees and the lees are left in the bottle. All other Prosecco styles from this region can have a range of sweetness levels.

The world of Prosecco has become a much larger category of wine and can be more difficult to decipher.  These descriptions of Prosecco hold the key to knowing what is in your bottle and understanding why there is a greater range of styles and prices than ever before.

Have a great National Prosecco Week and to learn more checkout https://nationalproseccoweek.com/

Wonderful World of Washington Wines Thumbnail

Wonderful World of Washington Wines

Washington State is the second largest wine producer in the United States, with a yearly volume of more than 17 million cases of wine; and much of that generated by one winery, the state’s oldest existing: Chateau Ste. Michelle. In fact, Chateau Ste. Michelle produces more wine than the entire neighboring state of Oregon. But before we dig into “the Chateau,” let’s review the industry’s history in this Pacific Northwest state.

Washington Wine History

Washington wine dates back to 1825, when the first grape vines were planted by the Hudson Bay Company at Fort Vancouver. Pioneer William B. Bridgman later introduced vinifera vines to Yakima Valley in the early 1900s and in the 1930s, Dr. Walter Clore, recognized as the father of the Washington wine industry, researched what varieties would grow well in the state. These early innovations, research, and pioneers later gave way to the significant growth of the industry in the 1960s and ‘70s.

The Yakima Valley, Columbia Valley, and Walla Walla Valley emerged as prominent wine regions, cultivating varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Riesling. The industry’s growth continued through the late 20th century, marked by the establishment of numerous wineries and a focus on producing high-quality wines that reflected the unique terroir of Washington. Today the industry is thriving with more than 1,000 wineries and 80 different varieties planted across 20 American Viticultural Areas (AVAs).

Why Washington

Although there are 60,000 acres of wine grapes across Washington, the majority are located within the Columbia Valley AVA in the eastern part of the state. Here, the Cascade Mountains block the wet weather from the Pacific Ocean and create dry, warm conditions. In other words, it’s a high desert with as much as 17-hours of sun during the growing season and very hot days followed by very cool nights. That diurnal temperature swing (sometimes as much as 50-degrees between day and night) is key for maintaining acidity in the grapes. As for the soils, throughout the Columbia Valley you’ll find a basalt foundation resulting from old lava flows, glacial slack water deposits from the Missoula floods, loess, and free draining, nutrient-poor composites making up the majority. These porous and well-draining soils are ideal for growing grapes and they provide a source of minerals to help the vines thrive.

With only one AVA west of the Cascades, the Puget Sound AVA, the majority of the regions across Washington are similar in climate to the Columbia Valley, but with varied soils, micro-climates, and elevations. It’s largely an arid to semi-arid region, geologically and geographically advantageous for growing a variety of grapes with balanced levels of acid, sugars, and structure.

The Chateau

Despite being the second largest producer of wine in the US, most of Washington’s wine is sold within the state, with only the largest wineries receiving nationwide distribution. One such winery is the iconic Chateau Ste. Michelle which has largely shaped the trajectory of the Washington wine industry.

Established in 1934, Chateau Ste. Michelle is Washington’s oldest winery. Initially known for its Riesling production, the winery later diversified its portfolio, showcasing the versatility of the state’s terroir. As a leader in both production and distribution, accounting for more than 50% of the state’s share, the Chateau has helped bring Washington wines to a global audience and launched the wine tourism industry. It has also significantly contributed to the state’s overall economy, education system, and greater community through its extensive outreach and philanthropy. And it is near impossible to find someone at one of the other 1,000+ wineries or 400 vineyards across the state without a connection to, or roots at, the Chateau. It has mentored many emerging winemakers and growers, contributing to the growth and maturation of the entire industry.

Although the Chateau was purchased by a private equity firm, Sycamore Partners, in 2021, and despite its release of 40% of its vineyard contracts in 2023, it remains a significant player in the state’s wine tourism industry. Much of the state’s wine is sold in Washington tasting rooms and direct to consumer sales are paramount for most of the state’s wineries. And while Chateau Ste. Michelle wines are found internationally, its sprawling estate and summer concert series draws more than 300,000 visitors from around the world annually

Visiting the Chateau

Located in Woodinville, Washington, just a 30-minute drive from downtown Seattle, Chateau Ste. Michelle sits on 105-wooded acres. The Chateau itself is surrounded by lush gardens, vineyards, and sprawling lawns. The tasting room is open daily and while reservations are recommended, walk-in appointments are available on a first come, first serve basis. And like the wines available to sample, there is no shortage of experiences to try – from classic flights or food pairings, to blending trials and sparkling extravaganzas. You can also opt for something more private as well. Igloos are available for rental in the winter, the grounds are open for picnics year-round, and twilight hours are an option for a shared glass or bottle on Friday and Saturday evenings. And as previously mentioned, the summer concert series is also not to be missed. As for the wines, while you think you might know the range from your local market or restaurant, rest-assured you’ve only seen the tip of the iceberg. This is a Washington icon not to be missed.

Experience Woodinville

As you can likely ascertain from the over 300,000 people flocking to Woodinville each year, a few more wineries have found a home in the area. It’s part of that Chateau effect. In fact, today more than 130 wineries from nearly every AVA across the state can be found in Woodinville across four districts: Hollywood, Warehouse, Downtown, and West Valley. Within these districts there are also spots like Wine Alley and Wine Walk, and sitting just outside of Woodinville, there are a few chic “garage” winemaking hotspots: SoDo and Maltby. A few out-of-state wineries have even made their way to this wine tourism destination. In fact, the Warehouse District is the home of more boutique wineries per square foot than any other wine region in the world! And while we don’t have the space to dive into the many producers worth your time and tasting, a few wineries from Woodinville’s various districts are highlighted below.

Alluvium Cellars is a boutique winery located at The Junction in Woodinville’s Warehouse District. One of the oldest of the area districts, these small warehouses are where the wine is made and many area wineries get their start. Alluvium is one of the newest players in the Warehouse District focusing on crafting premium small batch wines. The wines are made from grapes sourced from several the top vineyards and produced in small lots. Winemaker Tyson Trautmann doesn’t shy away from innovative winemaking techniques as he seeks to leverage technology to enhance the process. The Alluvium tasting room, open Fridays to Sundays, was designed by Trautmann’s wife Brittany Trautmann, and features a modern-rustic aesthetic reflective of the wines – and you’ll taste right where its made.

Recommended wines: 2022 Apricity (Rhone-style white), 2022 Armogan (Chardonnay), 

2021 Anthem (Rhone-style red), and the 2022 Alyssum (Grenache).

Damsel Cellars proves that not all Damsels are in distress. Found in Woodinville’s Hollywood District, Damsel Cellars’ winemaker, Mari Womack, began her career in 2010, working in nearby Woodinville tasting rooms and volunteering during harvest. She eventually became the assistant winemaker at Darby Winery before subsequently launching her own boutique line of wines at Damsel Cellars. Womack specializes in red wines including Syrah and Cabernet from Columbia Valley, but the white wines are equally compelling. The Hollywood winery is open seven days a week, and the second location, located in the Artisan Hills is open Saturday and Sunday.

Recommended wines: 2022 Damsel Cellars Boushey Vineyard Marsanne, 2020 Damsel Boushey Vineyard Syrah, 2020 Damsel Cellars Boushey Vineyard Cabernet Franc, and the 2021 Damsel Cellars Syrah “MEDUSA.”

Two Vintners, is larger than the two aforementioned Woodinville producers and is found both in the Warehouse District as well as The Vault in the newest winemaking district, Maltby. And although the Two Vintners label is relatively new, its sister winery, Covington Cellars was founded by Cindy & David Lawson as the 19th winery to open in Woodinville in 2002. They’ve since grown to include Two Vintners, in partnership with winemaker Morgan Lee. Lee oversees all wine production for both wineries and was recently named “Winemaker to Watch” by Seattle Magazine, but a few sips into his line up and you won’t need anyone to tell you that. His talent speaks through the wine. Between the two wineries Lee and the Lawsons are delivering a range of varieties from Riesling, Gewürtztraminer, and Grenache Blanc to Cabernet Franc, Cinsault, Syrah, and Merlot. They play with a lot of varieties, but not only are the wines great, you can tell they have fun making them. Both locations are open Fridays through Sundays with reservations required for groups of 6 or more.

Recommended wines: 2021 OG, 2021 Make Haste Cinsault, and 2020 Some Days Are Stones Syrah.

And lastly, a long-time favorite and more established Washington winery, Barnard Griffin. With its original location in eastern Washington, the Woodinville tasting room is found along the newly opened Wine Walk Row with numerous wine tasting rooms, shops, and restaurants. Barnard Griffin was founded in 1983 by Rob Griffin and his wife Deborah Barnard. Today the family operation also includes second-generation winemaker, daughter, Megan Hughes. It is one of Washington’s most enduring and award-winning wineries with a range of well-crafted wines from select vineyards across the state.

Recommend wines: 2022 Rose of Sangiovese, 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2018 Petit Verdot – Lonesome Spring Ranch.

Washington is a major player nationwide, but while a few of the larger, icon wineries are spreading awareness globally, many of the state’s 1,000+ producers remain largely dependent on wine tourism and direct to consumer sales. And with the recent divestiture of vineyard contracts by the Chateau coinciding with a decrease in wine sales worldwide, tourism and brand awareness are even more tantamount to the region’s success. But with so many unique producers and 80 varieties growing state-wide, each showcasing the state’s versatility, there’s far more waiting to be discovered.

Gira De Fuerza, A Spanish Tour De Force

When first encountering Spanish wines, one could easily be overwhelmed by any number of delicious, good value and quality bottles, as well as totally unfamiliar varietals and producers. With a little digging and education, the beautiful and diverse world of Spanish wines can truly expand your options as well as your palate.

Spain offers many different wine regions. There are picturesque mountains, valleys, the countryside, amazing beaches, and beautiful native parks. In every region there is rich history reflected in the winery architecture, the vineyard design, the colors and scents of different terroirs, the local cuisine of the region complimenting the fruit of the vines, and of course the wine itself.

Let’s start our journey on the Northwest Coast in Galicia. This region faces the sea and receives plentiful rain, with a climate suited to producing the best Albariño and Godella. The stunning acidity and citrus notes make these white wines a perfect pairing with the local seafood. Paula Fandiño, Winemaker of “Mar de Frades” shows all her passion in this amazing Albariño wine.

Journeying northward, we move towards the king and queen wine regions in Spain; Rioja D.O.Q (Designation of Origin Qualified), and Ribera D.O.Q. Both are world class viticultural regions and the flagship for Spanish premium quality red wines. Experts say that the best thing that has happened to the Rioja wine is the arrival of the Ribera del Duero D.O.Q. to elevate the competition and quality of production in both regions. Winemakers here are known for creating high quality, long-lived, concentrated, deep-colored and full-bodied wines.

Both areas are blessed with a continental climate in a Mediterranean country. Short hot summers are followed by a precipitous drop in temperature come autumn. A lower average temperature throughout the growing season affects the flowering, fruit set, and overall ripening. Therefore, grapes have a later budbreak in the spring and ripen early in the fall, allowing grapes an extended period of slow growth in the middle of the season to extract as much as possible from the vineyards. Both areas are at high altitude reaching 900m in Rioja and 1100m in Ribera del Duero which helps to curtail temperature spikes in an increasingly warmer world.

So many single vineyards wines have been produced in Rioja, that classifications needed to be updated. We were used to Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva, designations based on time spent in oak, age of barrels and ageing in the bottle. However, these designations are too broad to allow these complex wines to speak of their terroir. Recently implemented geographical indications are described on the labels in 3 ways: 1. “Single Vineyard o Viñedo Singular” 2.“State Wine o Vino de Municipio” and 3. “Vino de la Zona , Wines from Rioja“ https://riojawine.com/en/rioja/types-of-wine/

Ancestral wineries such as Lopez de Heredia, Muga, Remelluri, Bodegas Sierra Cantabria, Ramirez de Garnuza, Marqués de Murrieta, Pujanza, Bodegas Roda are known for their meaty and full-bodied wines. CVNE, Finca Allende, Finca Valpiedra , Marqués de Vargas, Continuo, also offer wines that are emblematic of this area – not only in red wines but also in white. It is amazing to taste the impressive quality of the region’s whites. A historic leader in the category is the Lopez de Heredia winery, with Viña Tondonia winning numerous awards. It is worth noting that white wine has become of increasing importance for a number of producers – and is set to be the next big trend in Rioja. What they have in mind is not the simple, conventionally made whites offering fresh and fruity qualities, but ‘elaboraciones especiales’. We are talking about mature wines from selected locations, vinified in a way not to be found elsewhere in Spain. In addition to the classic varieties Viura and Malvasia, autochthonous grapes are also showing what they can do. Whites like Maturana Blanca and Tempranillo Blanco have the possibility of transforming Rioja’s white wines. Not only that, but as wood-refined wines, they have the potential to revive the Reserva and Gran Reserva category for whites. The future is filled with excitement and interest.

Alongside these venerable and traditional wineries new producers are emerging. First established out of their garages and later in a caves, these start-ups are taking full advantage of the microclimate. Bodega Contador offers us a new concept of wines – green pruning, cluster thinning and pre-harvest. The grapes are harvested by hand and in crates, seeking maturity but not over-ripeness. Very little sulfur is used, and the wines are neither filtered nor clarified.

Additional wonders in Rioja are “Las Lomas “from Miguel Merino winery and “Miguel Merino white.” Both are single plot wines, where a special pruning occurs just after the full moon. Very much worth getting your hands on, but these amazing wines are quite difficult to find.

Aalto, Hermanos Sastre, Bodegas Mauro, Valdemonjas with “Abrí las Alas” wine, Magna Vides “Bancales del Sardal wine”, Pago de Capellanes, Pago de Carraovejas, Bodegas Mauro, Bodega Pesquera , Emilio Moro, Alonso del Yerro , are great wineries in this area that exemplify the quality of the next generation. And not to be overlooked is a winemaker “Francisco Barona”, who studied in Bordeaux and is making wines with a French character that seemingly makes everyone adore them.

Of course no one can forget Bodegas Vega Sicilia, the pioneer from the 19th century, currently producing some of the most admired red wines in the world by winemaker Peter Sisseck MW: “Alion” and ”Vega Sicilia Unico” in addition to the fabulously priced “Dominio de Pingus “and “Hacienda Monasterio.”

To complete the tour of North of Spain, nestled above the hills in Tarragona, is a Denomination of Origin established in 2004. Priorat, known in the local Catalan and now throughout the rest of Spain, produces beautiful Garnacha. This is one of the most terroir driven areas in Spain. The most important element of Priorat is a very particular schist, known as llicorella locally. It is a relatively soft reddish-black slate with small particles of mica quartz that is both cool and damp enough to nourish deep-rooted vines in the particularly dry, Mediterranean summers of Priorat.

Imports of Spanish wines have grown across the globe, so be on the lookout for: Clos Morgador de René Barbier , Clos Martinet , Clos Fortá, Clos de L ́Obiet de Costes del Siurana, Alvaro Palacios, the public face of Priorat, and his fascinating wine L ́Ermita, is particular favorite. But you don’t want to miss the chance to taste any and all these wines as starting your own Gira De Fuerza has never been easier.

For the Love of Old Vines

Old Vine Zinfandel “Credit: Lodi Winegrape Commission”

In our modern society we seem to always think new is better. We live in a world of trading in and trading up. The same can apply to grape vines. For one reason or another, older grape vines get ripped up. They are removed for a myriad of reasons, from their production value to land development, yet somehow, some vines survive. It is an age-old question – did the vines survive because they make great wine or do the vines make great wine because they survived?

The answer is both, neither, or…it depends.

Throughout the world there are pockets of old vines. These vines are used for making red wine, white wine, sweet wine, fortified wine, and sparkling wine. Old vines can be found in the countries of Chile, Portugal, the United States, France, Italy, Australia, South Africa, and Greece just to name a few. Some countries have regulations for the use of the term “old vine”. Many do not. Sometimes the regulation is voluntary.

So, what does old vine mean?

Without legal definition, old vines in most countries are considered to be vines thirty years or older. This is because the average vine is removed and replanted around age twenty-five, as that is when a decline in productivity begins to happen. As vines age, their yields begin to decline. These vines produce less fruit, yet the fruit that they do produce becomes much more concentrated, much like gaining wisdom with age. The vine may be older, but it is in some ways getting better. More concentration from old vine wines also means lower yields, and these wines are often sold at a higher price point than wine from young vines. Though the notion of wine is often romanticized, but wine is a business and profitability is what keeps wineries open. For the economics to work, consumers must accept paying more for the wine. When speaking with Stuart Spencer, executive Director of Lodi Wine Commission and grower and winemaker for St. Amant Winery, he noted that it can be difficult to convince the average consumer to spend $75 on a bottle of Zinfandel. While the age of old vines starts at thirty years old and can grow older than 150 years old, as seen in the Barossa Valley, it isn’t easy for vines to reach that age.

Old Vine Assyrtiko, Santorini

Greece is one of the few countries that has a legal definition for old vines. If used for wines from a PDO or PGI (Protected Designation of Origin/ Protected Geographic Indication), the vines must be a minimum of 40 years old, and they must be ungrafted.

On the island of Santorini, the average vine age is 80-100 years old. Santorini vines have the ability to age for several reasons. It is an island, which limits the number of pests and diseases that can enter the ecosystem. The island is not hospitable to many other crops, and the volcanic sandy soil made it difficult for phylloxera, a devastating root louse, to move through the land. The grape Assyrtiko makes wonderfully concentrated white wines with refreshingly crisp acidity and notes of citrus and stone fruit. The wines are fantastic, and unfortunately, the vines are in danger. Santorini is a tourist destination that is becoming increasingly popular. As more luxury hotels are built, vineyards are being wiped out by urban sprawl. Urban sprawl is taking the land and adding more pollution to the region. To protect the vines, Santorini has applied to become a UNESCO world heritage site. Achieving this would protect the vineyards and keep the urban sprawl at bay.

“Credit: Lodi Winegrape Commission”

Another area that is in danger of urban sprawl is Lodi, California. In Lodi California, east of San Francisco there are many old vine vineyards. The majority of them are Zinfandel. There are Zinfandel vines dating back to 1888. Vineyards in Lodi can be registered with the Historic Vineyard Society (HVS), a voluntary organization dedicated to preserving old vines in California. To register a vineyard with HVS, a minimum 1/3 of the vineyard must be traceable to plantings from 50 years ago. Many of these vines were planted before prohibition. The survival of Zinfandel in Lodi is directly tied to White Zinfandel wine. If it weren’t for large wineries buying every ounce of Zinfandel grapes that they could find, many of these vines would have been ripped out ages ago. Now that the vines are older, the growers need to be put in touch with winemakers that not only want to make old vine Zinfandel, but also are willing to pay more for the grapes. The Lodi Wine Commission helps to facilitate these matches. Unfortunately, this is not always enough. With labor costs skyrocketing and labor sources dwindling, some growers are ripping out vineyards in favor of orchards because orchards require less labor. Urban sprawl is the other issue threatening the vineyards – there is a Costco a half a mile east of some of the vineyards.

In France there is no legal definition for old vine or vieilles vignes. In Champagne, Pierre Gimonnet et Fils is a grower-producer (Récoltant-Manipulant or, RM) making some bottlings of their Champagne from old vines. They consider old vines to be over 40 years old. According to Didier Gimonnet, they are in no danger of urban sprawl taking their vineyard. It helps when the growers are also the winemakers. They have a vineyard parcel “le Bateau” dating back to 1911 planted in Cramant. The old vine parcels that they have are used in Special Club bottlings. Didier enjoys working with the old vines in the vineyards and finds the grapes give the wines natural harmony. Having the old vine wines gives depth and complexity to the range of wines that the house makes.

Much like the chicken or the egg question, the question of ‘are the vines old because they make great wine’ or ‘do they make great wine because the vines are old’, may never be truly answered. However, there is no denying the concentration that comes from old vines as they produce less fruit. There are many places in the world that have pockets of old vines and all of them are worth exploring. At the end of the day, what keeps these vines around is people buying and enjoying the bottles. Any time is the right time to enjoy an old vine wine and help secure the old vine legacy.

Recommended old vine wines to try:

Pierre Gimonnet: 2016 Special Club ‘Grands Terroirs de Chardonnay

Pear, Guava, Chalk

Bollinger: 2013 Vieilles Vignes Francasises

Quince, Hazelnut, Candied Lemon Peel

Santo Wines: 2020 Santorini Assyrtiko Grande Reserve

Golden Apple, Honey, Toast

Boutari: 2020 Santorini Assyrtiko

Jasmine, Mango, Wildflowers

St Amant: 2021 Mohr-Fry Old Vine Zinfandel

Blackberry, Raspberry, Baking Spice

Langetwins: 2017 Centennial Zinfandel

Raspberry, Clove, Licorice

The English Are Coming! And They Are Sparkling

English Sparkling Wine is Having a Moment

Situated just 200 miles northeast of Champagne, the vineyards of southern England are less than two degrees latitude north of the famed French wine region and planted on similar soils. And now with slightly warmer temperatures, this part of England is becoming a hub for high quality wines that are so good, they are beginning to rival some of those produced by their French neighbors.

The visit to Kent and Sussex was to chat with winery employees and learn more about English sparkling and still wines. The verdict: the wines are glorious, the winemakers are really excited about making a bigger splash on the sparkling scene, and momentum within the category is building.

Just since visiting in May, Jackson Family Wines swooped in and announced the hiring of Charlie Holland, the now-former CEO and winemaker at Gusbourne, to produce sparkling wine at a contract facility in Kent. They also announced they are acquiring approximately 26 hectares (64 acres) of vineyard property in Essex. So, the word is spreading quickly now; southwest England is the new frontier for sparkling wine.

Are Brits Drinking British Sparkling?

While in-the-know U.S. wine enthusiasts have been in on the English Sparkling wine secret for a while, even most Brits outside of the wine cognoscenti are just now coming around to the incredible sparkling wines made in their own country.

As Ned Awty, interim chairman of Wine GB, explained, “U.K. consumers are increasingly looking for quality, local, sustainably produced products and U.K. wines fit that bill. Traditional media and social media, coupled with sommeliers, are helping to change attitudes and larger producers also have helped English Sparkling become more mainstream.”

Awty also notes that a new generation of wine consumers is emerging – a group who have grown up vineyards around them see it as normal to visit wineries for tastings and food. “You might call them British Wine Natives,” he says.

Wine Tourism is a Thing Now

As the English wine industry grows, so too does English wine tourism. Wine GB started English Wine Week in 2016 (scheduled for June 15-23, 2024), as a platform for retailers and wineries to heavily promote English wines and cultivate more English wine fans.

After visiting three sparkling houses and one urban London winery in May, I can effervescently report that the wines are excellent and the tasting rooms are full and lively! Here’s a recap:

Gusbourne

With 150 total acres under vine in West Sussex, Surrey and Kent, Gusbourne has been producing world-class traditional method sparkling wines since 2004. Their wines are widely available in the U.S. (imported by Broadbent Selections).

Gusbourne produces 100% estate wines and 100% vintage wines. Their plantings include the classic sparkling grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

Gusbourne’s sparkling wines are glorious, offering exquisite fruit balanced with acidity that make the wines come alive on the palate. Their still wines are equally excellent particularly their reserve Chardonnay and rosé of Pinot Noir – a result of warming temperatures that allow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to fully ripen.

Ridgeview

Ridgeview is one of England’s earliest sparkling houses, harking back to 1995. Mike and Chris Roberts still own it today and their son is the winemaker. Their first bottling in 2000 was named England’s Wine of the Year, and they’ve gone on to serve their 2004 Blanc de Blancs at Queen Elizabeth’s 80th birthday celebration in 2006! (The Queen served Ridgeview’s Sparkling Rosé to President Obama at Buckingham Palace in 2011.)

Ridgeview produces sparkling wines on a grand scale, making the wines quite accessible, both price-wise and flavor profile-wise to a wide cross section of wine consumers. (Read: they offer a hint more sweetness than others.)

Ridgeview is imported in the U.S. by Banville Merchants, and are some of the more accessible, price-wise, clocking in around $30-$45 (and up).

Rathfinney

As a newcomer to the Sussex area, Rathfinney was founded by Mark and Sarah Driver in 2010. The property is enormous, and the Drivers anticipate soon having 350 acres under vine. Their first 50 acres were planted in 2012, but Rathfinney’s wines aren’t yet exported, so if you visit, bring a bottle or two home!

The Rathfinney Blanc de Blancs was one of the best English sparkling wines of the visit– generous fruit, fine bubbles, exceptional balance.

London Cru

This is London’s first urban winery, opened in 2013. Located in an old gin warehouse in southwest London, they’ve been so successful that they acquired their own vineyard earlier this year. They are making and selling still and sparkling wines from international varietals like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and native grapes like Bacchus. The wines are getting high marks from British reviewers, and they offer a range of tours and other experiences to engage consumers and get liquid to lips! Trying the 2021 Bacchus was a delight, bright citrus and orchard fruits like peach and apple and zesty acidity, and an approachable lower ABV of 11%

Why So Expensive?

It all boils down to the economics of making wine in England, versus making wine in a place such as Uruguay or Chile, where costs of land, labor, and production are less. While larger-scale brands like Ridgeview can be found for as low as $50 U.S. online, more boutique brands – even in England – retail for prices that equal those of grower Champagne ($60-$70 or more).

How Do They Differ from Champagne?

Other than location there is not much difference from Champagne. English winemakers are using the same three dominant grapes; Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, mostly grown on similar limestone soils, and the majority are making their wines in the Methodé Champenoise, where secondary fermentation happens in the bottle.  Both climates are cool and continental, so overall English sparkling wine is a more similar product to Champagne than even Franciacorta or Trentodoc.

And the soil similarities might be the most important aspect, especially for those that believe in terroir. Champagne is built on an outcropping of limestone, which is very porous, offering good drainage, and just the right amount of stress that sets up vines for success. The vineyards of Kent and Sussex are largely set upon nearly identical chalky soils to those in Champagne and with similar climate and the same grapes offer the same benefits.

Tradition may be the biggest differentiator but even revered Champagne houses are plunking down pounds for English vineyards and setting up shop with their own wineries in Kent and Sussex. Champagne Taittinger has put down roots in Kent and Champagne Pommery in Hampshire, west of Sussex.

Bottom line: English sparkling, as well as still wines are worth seeking out, whether from a local retailer, restaurant, or on your own English wine trip.

Cheers!

Sherry, Sherry in the Cask. Who is the Fairest You Might Ask?

A tippling tour through the wonderland of Sherry-finished whiskies

For many lovers of fine Whiskies or luxury spirits of any type, there are few things better than a well-aged Scotch matured in Sherry barrels. The intense aromatics, often redolent with dried red fruits and fudge, exude a certain sumptuousness. Though Cognac had long been the spirited drink of sophisticates the world over, and has regained some of that reputation today, when phylloxera ravaged the vineyards of France in the last quarter of the nineteenth century a considerable hole was left in the global spirits market. Tasting these types of drams, the appeal and transition from Cognac to Scotch becomes quite easy to understand as the natural replacement with fingerprints on consumers drinking preference the world over more than one hundred and fifty years later.

Perhaps this bridge in flavor profile is also what has led Sherry cask matured whiskies to be held as some of the most prestigious Scotch Whisky brands in the world. This hypothesis rings particularly true when you see the bottle prices of finely matured Sherry cask examples in Asia’s premier Whisky markets like Singapore, Japan, Hong Kong, and Taiwan that have also been the primary market for premium Cognac. Because of this association with luxury, one can see examples of sexagenarian Macallan and vintage Yamazaki Sherry Cask Single Malts achieving incredible prices at auction, and Kavalan’s production out of Taiwan has grown to cover a wide range of wine cask aged expressions attuned to the market demand of these palates.

Now part of what made Sherry cask aging appealing more than a century ago was the ease and availability of these casks. Sherry was shipped in cask rather than bottles to the United Kingdom and empty barrels were purchased and refilled quite quickly as the most common oak vessel available in Scotland during this era. Unfortunately, today not too many folks are sipping a Cream Sherry made from Oloroso, much less a fancy Manzanilla, so the input cost of getting high quality European oak Sherry butts (500-liter cask) is cresting. Casting aside the economics of casks for the time being, however fascinating that might be to the minority of us, the impetus behind the philosophizing of potent potables was the partaking in a plethora of magnificently consistent Kavalan single barrel releases.

To pour a glass of Kavalan one cannot help but immediately notice the aromas and color of the whisky; this is a beverage led by barrel characteristics from start to finish. Whiskies’ flavors derive primarily from either the grains, the malting (with or without smoke and peat), fermentation (yeast type, temperature, and duration), distillation (still design and cuts), and cask maturation. So Kavalan exhibits our primary indicator of a Sherry bomb; aroma, flavor, and finish being primarily driven by the oak maturation process. When sipping these single barrel expressions at cask strength, particularly the Oloroso barrel, there is a collective thought in the room of not just any Sherry bombs, but a variation of a melody harkening the long since discontinued Macallan Cask Strength Ten Year.

Purely in the name of science… we have no choice but to scour our spirits archives.  With treasured tipple in hand, we pop the cork on a Macallan Cask Strength Ten Year that has been untouched for about a decade and a half. Wow. Powerful, balanced, waves of flavor, lots of Oloroso Sherry, and more cask strength power. This bottle sparks two thoughts. First this recalls a time much earlier than the 2000s when Scotch had much more Sherry aging than the dominant bourbon barrel aging that we see today, and secondly this just holds the alcohol differently than the Kavalan. Delicious, intense, and loaded with far more tropical fruits, the hotter climate and short aging time in Taiwan is unmistakably different. Not inherently better nor worse, more a variation on a similar theme that while akin in quality does not taste the same in execution.

Using Macallan cask strength as our benchmark from 20 years ago when single malts began a precipitous rise to global market dominance, and Kavalan as our benchmark for a modern market entrant into the category provides a solid global perspective. But of course, we can’t leave a good idea and opportunity for tasting Sherry bombs here. We must push on for science! Covering the range from 80 proof to cask strength, we are looking at the majority of the Kavalan range for comparison: Concertmaster Port, Sherry, and Vinho Barrique, Soloist Oloroso, Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado, Port, Vinho Barrique, Moscatel, Pedro Jiminez, and Brandy, Triple Sherry, and Distillery Reserve Madeira. For Scotch we grab Aberlour 12 YO, 16 YO, 18 YO, and A’bunadh with Macallan 12 YO, 18 YO, 25 YO, and Exceptional Single Cask to further pair with Glenfarclas 12 YO, 17 YO, 25 YO, and 105 and Glendronach 12 YO, 18 YO, and 21 YO. Then there is single barrel Tamdhu cask strength expression from Signatory, with Dalmore 12 YO, Cigar Blend, and Alexander III,  to go with Balvenie 12 YO, and 17 YO Double Casks, Glenmorangie Lasanta, Bowmore 12 YO, 15 YO Darkest, and 18 YO, Glenrothes 18 YO, GlenAllachie 15 YO some Highland Park single barrels aged exclusively in first fill Sherry, and last but not least a bottle of Bruichladdich 1986 Rare Cask. For modern domestic entrants we grab some Stranahan’s, Courage & Conviction, and Westland aged in Sherry. With the crown jewel of the tasting being some Yamazaki 2013 Sherry Cask. (Just kidding, we would love to try this example, but even with all our industry contacts don’t know anyone with an open bottle)[1]

Checking in on some domestic sherry bombs we have the Strahanan’s which comes closest to the Scottish style with Westland and Courage & Conviction making excellent entrants into the category while being less overt with the Sherry cask flavor. Altering the sherry bomb outline slightly, as all of the other whiskies are Single Malt, we check in on the Middle West 6-Year-Old Bourbon in Sherry barrels, sweet and very Bourbon-esque, but led by dominant sherry barrel flavors all the same. Not too dissimilar from Angel’s Envy in concept and well worth a try if you enjoy these types of American Whiskies.

Not particularly known for producing Sherry barreled or Sherry finished whiskies, Bruichladdich, can on occasion offer up a Sherry bomb gem. As the internal product story goes the 1986 Rare Cask was the final seven casks of distillate laid down in first fill sherry butts back in 1986 where it remained untouched until 2012 when Jim McEwan has the whisky recasked into Pedro Ximenez butts from Bodega Fernando de Castilla for an additional four years. What could be more Sherry bomb than double Sherry for 30 years? Pop the cork and start pouring, you immediately know this is a serious whisky as the aromatics are easily detected from a meter or more away. Dried black cherries, figs, dates, cocoa nibs, leather, and maduro tobacco exude from the glass and are matched on the palate with a density and richness of figgy toffee pudding topped with candied walnuts. Baked caramel apple, singed salted caramels, black tea leaves, dark chocolate covered orange peels. This also has that old Bruichladdich fingerprint of a mild smokey peatiness that lingers on the palate like a light puff of a finely crafted cigar.

Big picture take aways

Sampling Kavalan one after another and the initial impression is that these younger barrels, aged in the heat just do not hold the higher ABV as elegantly as their Scottish counterparts aged for a decade or two. However, when trying a cask strength Kavalan paired by cask type in between cask strength Aberlour and Glenfarclas, the flavor of the heat becomes more apparent, and the “burn” is not just the prickle of alcohol but a level of spice that the Scotch representatives do not have, and which builds with more sips of the Taiwanese example. So, while the mild weather of Scotland does produce a more round and integrated perception of alcohol, and the Kavalan is a bit more assertive, the climate of Taiwan also imparts these casks with an added barrel spice found nowhere else on a Single Malt of this caliber anywhere in the world.

Whether you grab a bottle of Macallan that was for sale in 1983, 2003, or today the product is great. Macallan has earned their rarified reputation and positioning on the top shelf with an attention to detail and consistency that extends to Highland Park, as well as Glenrothes, and Tamdhu during their watch. Are the stratospheric auction prices justified? That is for the individual to decide should they have that type of money for rare and exclusive items. Sadly, this relentless climb of secondary market pricing justifies the annual increase to flagship products like the Macallan 12 YO and 18 YO making them too expensive for some of their longtime supporters. Folks can argue both sides of the quality to price ratio here, but Macallan’s seat on the mountain was earned.

With Macallan gaining new fans every day, where have the fans of the brand and style from previous decades gone? Obviously, some have moved to Kavalan, and a good many have stayed with Edrington team sipping Highland Park, if they like smoke, or Glenrothes. Others have been chasing Billy Walker’s cask management and passion projects, particularly stops with Glendronach and GlenAllachie. John Grant and his spectacular Glenfarclas somehow manage to fly under the radar, most likely because they are one of the few distilleries that is still family owned and they refuse to beat their chests and bellow, rather preferring that customers serendipitously discover these gems for themselves. Bowmore, like Highland Park caters to a growing niche that likes smoke and Sherry cask aging. While Aberlour and Balvenie go along being excellent yet playing little brother to their partner distilleries Glenlivet and Glenfiddich; a shame, because both brand portfolios are both rich in history and flavor, built for more serious consideration. Value again is in the eye of the purchaser, but every one of the aforementioned brands has been found guilty of making our wallets lighter and found a home in our personal collections.

Last but not least, if you don’t immediately like your wine cask aged whisky, let it stay in your glass for a few hours, and let your newly opened bottle sit on the shelf for eight to twelve weeks. The issues of sulfur, used as a preservative in for shipment of Sherry and wine casks are lessened from a few years back, but they are still present, and many distilleries keep casks for several decades. Mild, slow aeration will help the off-putting aromas blow off in most cases, as well as often bitter oak tannins. In more extreme cases you can attempt to save a bottle by dropping in an old clean copper penny… there really is some science here. Not every brand nor bottle will be great, but a little patience and information can hopefully improve a few. Slàinte Mhath!

[1] Though using archival samples with historic scores, and spitting alcohol to remain lucid, we are also using samples from our personal collections. This is a comparative tasting to inform curious minds and contextualize the spirits against a historic global market. This does not reflect the annual product reviews and scores conducted in laboratory conditions at the Beverage Testing Institute.

Corks Versus Screw Caps: Which Is Better?

A recent report from Wine.com that correlated high-quality wines with cork closures got me thinking about corks and screw caps. Since April is Earth Month, it’s a good time to explore natural cork closures versus metal screw caps and answer the burning question: which is less harmful to the environment?

Where Do Corks Come From?

Cork comes from the cork oak and Portugal is home to 34% of them, with another 28% of the world’s cork oaks in neighboring Spain. Growing and harvesting cork is a long-term investment. It takes 25 years for a cork oak to yield its first harvest – and that first harvest nets cork that is not useable for wine or spirit bottles. The earliest that the next harvest can be made: nine years. And that second harvest is still not good enough quality for wine corks. It takes a minimum of 43 years to get the first harvest of cork that can be used for bottle closures!

Harvesting cork is not easy. Harvest happens in June, July and August – and in Alentejo, those months are hot, averaging 89°F. Highly skilled and trained harvest workers are paid €150 per day to carefully carve bark from the trees with a very sharp tool, and take great care to not damage the tree.

Cork is a Super Sustainable Natural Resource

Cork oaks aren’t irrigated and no pesticides or fertilizers are used, making them low-maintenance. Plus, black pigs eat the acorns that fall from cork oaks, so they are an important part of an entire ecosystem.

On top of it all, cork has a negative carbon footprint. Cork forests are great at carbon sequestration, as the trees absorb carbon from the atmosphere, and they are lightweight in transit. In fact, studies have shown that a single wine cork can offset the entire carbon footprint of the glass bottle in which it is put.

Most consumers associate cork with higher-end wines and year upon year cork closures are the preference for wines that earn the highest scores, regardless of price point. The conclusion cited in a APCOR (Portuguese Cork Association) report that “the best decision a novice consumer can make when choosing wine is to purchase a wine sealed with a cork.”

This begs the question of Australian wines, which are known for being mostly under screwcap. But that may be changing, according to APCOR’s Operational Director, Carlos de Jesus. “For three years in a row – from 2017 – to 2019 – use of cork in Australia grew by 33% each year.”

According to de Jesus this can be attributed to three things: the growth of sparkling wines in Australia (which only use cork closures), the younger generation of winemakers who aren’t interested in making the next “$2.99 screwcap Chardonnay,” and the massive importance of the image-obsessed Chinese market on Australian wines until the tariffs of March 2021.

Some Background on Screwcaps

Screw caps do come from factories, but this makes them low cost and consistent. They are made from aluminum and/or tin and plastic, and the metal components can be recycled indefinitely. Amcor, the company that produces the popular Stelvin brand of screw cap, has pledged to make all their packaging components recyclable by 2025.

While natural cork is recyclable, facilities that recycle corks are few and far between. The good news is that cork is biodegradable, so even in a landfill, corks are fairly harmless. Aluminum and plastic screw caps can be recycled, but obviously are not biodegradable.

Of course there is the ease of use when it comes to a screwcap. Sure there is an elegance to using a wine key and allure of popping a cork at dinner or really anytime when sharing wine with friends. But there are also those days when you are traveling for work, TSA took your corkscrew way, and all you want is a glass of wine at the end of a long day. The simple screwcap is your friend on these occasions, as much as learning to open a wine bottle with the heel of your shoe is an entertaining life hack.

But What About Cork Taint?

Cork has long been held as the culprit of cork tainted wines. This common wine flaw is in a chemical reaction of fungi, mold, and lignin reacting with fungicides, insecticides, and hypochlorite, aka bleach, which are collectively known as halophenols. The resulting compound, 2,4,6-Trichloroanisole, or TCA, stays on the cork impacting the smell and taste of the wine. In pronounced examples this will make your wine smell like wet cardboard, musty basement, or wet dog. In milder cases this will result in a wine that smells and tastes muted with the typical fruit characteristics just lacking. Either way, you will always notice as corked wine as the off flavors become more pronounced with time and oxygen.

While TCA is not harmful to ingest, those faulty aromas and flavors can ruin a wine experience. So with time and research, the cork industry has invested heavily in finding ways to minimize and even eliminate the presence of TCA in corks. In fact de Jesus, said, “The sweet irony is that as long as cork has been defeated by TCA, it has now become the best defense against TCA.”

He is referring to processes that have been developed to get rid of TCA in corks. These processes can be expensive, but for wineries and winemakers who make “safe” corks a priority, it’s a good investment.

Alex Sokol Blosser, president of Sokol Blosser Winery in Willamette Valley, Oregon, explained why they use the DIAM™ natural corks on their wines. “It’s natural cork that gets ground up into flakes and then goes through a sort of “decaffeinating” process that removes any TCA. Then the cork is then reassembled into one piece with beeswax, so it’s a win-win!” He notes that since Sokol Blosser started using DIAM corks in 2008, they have not had one corked bottle of wine.

Screw caps also can reduce the possibility of TCA, but as de Jesus said, “Cork is not the only carrier of TCA – it can be present in fruits, vegetables, coffee beans, even plastics – and even, sometimes, screw caps.”

Decisions and Choices

In speaking with winemakers, the preference for cork was unanimous, because of the sustainability. “I prefer using corks over screwcaps because cork is a more sustainable product,” said Marisa Taylor, an independent Napa Valley winemaker.

Ana Diogo, director of winemaking at Artesa in Napa Valley agrees. “Cork closures are my preference because they are sustainable and there is more potential for cellar aging for with wines under cork,” said Diogo. “And as a Portuguese, I have a deep appreciation for cork oaks and how they are a protected and important part of the entire ecosystem where they grow.”

Alex Sokol Blosser, declares, “I hate screw caps. Sustainability has a been a core value and daily practice for us since we were founded more than 50 years ago,” he said. “Do I wish that every single bottle we make was under cork? I do. But we also need to sustain our family-owned winery with sales, so a few of our wines are under screwcap to meet customer demands.”

Indeed, according to winemakers that I spoke with, the only reason that some wines are under screwcap is linked to sales. “Servers like screwcap bottles for wines sold by-the-glass,” said Diogo. “It’s a double-edged sword, because screwcaps are more expensive now and some wineries have to bring in a mobile bottling line to do screwcaps – so do the sales make up for the added expense? It’s hard to know.”

In the end, natural cork is the clear winner for the world from an environmental standpoint. As de Jesus says, “The pop of the cork always carries good news. It signals that a great moment is about to happen!”